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How to Sew the Bias Bound and Hong Kong Seam Finishes


As far as supplies, you will need 1/2" bias tape (buy it pre-made, or make your own if you'd like).

What is the difference between the Bias Bound and the Hong Kong seam finishes?

The Bias Bound is stitched on TOP of the bias tape

and the tape is folded on the underside.

The Hong Kong is stitched between the tape and the fabric

and has a raw edge on the underside making it slightly less bulky.



Bias Option

Step 1: Sew a regular 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam


Step 2: Press the seam open


Step 3: Sandwich the raw edge between the bias tape folds


Step 4: Make sure the narrow half of your bias tape is on top

then attach the bias tape to the seam allowance edge



Hong Kong Option

Step 1: Sew a regular 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam


Step 2: Press the seam open

and press the bias tape flat


Step 3: Line up the raw seam allowance edge with the bias tape edge



Step 4: Sew the bias tape to the seam allowance at 1/4" (6 mm) from the edge.


Step 5: Fold the bias tape, wrapping it around the raw edge of the fabric

and then press.


Step 6: From the right side, stitch in the "ditch" of the first stitching line


The last step for both techniques is to give it a good final press.


Both techniques are frequently used to finish the seams of unlined jackets.


Happy Sewing!